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 1.25" Well
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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 27 2010 :  6:15:42 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I have a 1.25" well that I think is about 120-130 feet deep. Water level in my area is, however, about 18-23 feet. I have used this well for about 13 years until a line on the pump leaked and I believe the pump burned up. I have been using a 1/2 hp convertible pump for years with little problem until now. I tried to replace it with a 1 hp shallow well pump, but it would not pull a prime (I know, dumb choice). I have taken everything back to the store and got my money back. I had a well guy come over today and he immediately said I needed a new well, pump, and tank to the tune of $1700.00. Do you experts think I can still use the old 1.25 inch well? He wants to install what he called a packer well to the 18-13 foot depth. I figure this is probably best, but to save money I would like to continue to use the old well, which I think is still good. BTW: I only use the well for irrigation and other general use, not potable water. Any advice is appreciated.

JustWellWater84
Senior Member

Florida
364 Posts

Posted - Apr 27 2010 :  8:04:55 PM  Show Profile Send JustWellWater84 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
if you were gonna try and pull 18-23' with any shallow well pump out of a 1.25" casing, you should put a 3/4" drop pipe in it with a check valve at the front of the pump. it's not something i would ordinarily recommend, but it would be the best way to try and make that well you have work. i wanna say the deepest i ever seen a shallow well pump pull from was 23-24'... and it wasnt your typical hardware store pump either. but if you were using a 1/2hp until just now, i would think a 1 hp should pull it.

on the other hand, i dont know what a 18-13 foot depth packer well is. .. around here you can barely get any well drilled for 1700, let alone a well, pump, and tank.. unless we are talking about a shallow well like 20-40' deep. how deep is the new well he is planning on drilling, and what size casing?
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speedbump
Admin



Riverview
Florida
11418 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  09:13:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit speedbump's Homepage Send speedbump a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
I have a 1.25" well that I think is about 120-130 feet deep.

That's the statement that got me. If that 1-1/4" well is more than 30' deep I would be amazed.

It could be that all you see is the 1-1/4" pipe and it's inside a larger casing that may be over 100' deep. I would do a little digging and see what you really have. That is if your not allergic to a shovel.

I have no idea what this other guy is talking about with a packer well at a shallow well depth. Anybody that is supposedly a well driller who recommends a well under 20' deep would get run off my property.

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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  09:17:15 AM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
No shovel allergies here. I have dug up the well head before, but don't recall if the PVC gets larger than 1.25". I do remember dropping a weight down the well and it was well over 100 feet, but the water level in my area is supposedly about 20 or so feet. If it is indeed 1.25" all the way down, do I have any options? What if it is larger than 1.25"? This thing worked for years, but all of the sudden I need a whole new well? Your help and comments are appreciated.
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speedbump
Admin



Riverview
Florida
11418 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  10:02:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit speedbump's Homepage Send speedbump a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I don't think anyone here has ever seen an 1-1/4" well much deeper than 30'. It's just not possible to shove a well with a screen on the end down that far.

It's my guess that if you dig deeper, you will find that the pipe gets larger. That will likely be the actual well diameter. Once you find that, you can disconnect this smaller pipe, pull it out if need be and then measure your water level and well depth.

Keep the other guy at arms length, sounds like he's fixin to do a bad job for you.

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JustWellWater84
Senior Member

Florida
364 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  12:19:01 PM  Show Profile Send JustWellWater84 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
i didnt realize we were talking about pvc, i've never seen a 1.25" pvc well deep at all.. i dont even drill or work on "shallow wells" in most cases. i figured he was talking about a 1.25 galvanized well. i have seen some of those a little deeper.. drove and pecked wells.. i have had to work on a few. they are uncommon, old as my grandpa, and in most cases good for nothing but cement and an abandonment report.

drop a string with a weight on it down the pipe and see how far it goes. i'm with bump, can't be deep.

Edited by - JustWellWater84 on Apr 28 2010 12:21:33 PM
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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  4:25:18 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
OK, I dug down about 4 feet and it is still 1.25". I cut off the top of the well and broke out my trusty fishing pole with a 2 oz. sinker on it and dropped it in and it sunk to 100 feet when it stopped. I also noticed a splash at a much higher level, so I measured the distance to the splash and it was at +/- 12 feet. So now I have totally confused myself, but hopefully not you guys. So here it what I have in nutshell.

-1.25" (PVC) well all the way down 100' as far as I can tell.
-water level is at about 12 feet.
-I currently don't have a pump except for my Myers Water Ace 1/2hp
that I think has a bad seal or impeller.

So, what now? I don't feel like I need to spend the $1700 on a new well. Do you think I can spend the money on a good pump and tank and make this thing work? All of your advice is greatly appreciated.
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Driller1
Senior Member



Michigan
982 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  6:01:44 PM  Show Profile Send Driller1 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vbfdsooty

OK, I dug down about 4 feet and it is still 1.25". I cut off the top of the well and broke out my trusty fishing pole with a 2 oz. sinker on it and dropped it in and it sunk to 100 feet when it stopped. I also noticed a splash at a much higher level, so I measured the distance to the splash and it was at +/- 12 feet. So now I have totally confused myself, but hopefully not you guys. So here it what I have in nutshell.

-1.25" (PVC) well all the way down 100' as far as I can tell.
-water level is at about 12 feet.
-I currently don't have a pump except for my Myers Water Ace 1/2hp
that I think has a bad seal or impeller.

So, what now? I don't feel like I need to spend the $1700 on a new well. Do you think I can spend the money on a good pump and tank and make this thing work? All of your advice is greatly appreciated.

Nope. And if you buy a new pump, very likely it will not work in the new well. I see people do this all the time.

If it makes you feel any better, the cheapest well I drill is about
$4000. Well, pump and tank complete.
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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  7:15:44 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
How about if I drive a new 2" well next to the old one, will this make a difference. I am capable of doing this. What I am not understanding is why my old well is not good now. I know there is water in there, I am just having trouble getting it to where I need it. Like I said, I have used this well for 13+ years until the pump crapped out. Thanks for the replies.
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Driller1
Senior Member



Michigan
982 Posts

Posted - Apr 28 2010 :  9:59:50 PM  Show Profile Send Driller1 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vbfdsooty

How about if I drive a new 2" well next to the old one, will this make a difference. I am capable of doing this. What I am not understanding is why my old well is not good now. I know there is water in there, I am just having trouble getting it to where I need it. Like I said, I have used this well for 13+ years until the pump crapped out. Thanks for the replies.

That question could only be answered by your local health department. Check for what permits you would need.
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speedbump
Admin



Riverview
Florida
11418 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  09:28:13 AM  Show Profile  Visit speedbump's Homepage Send speedbump a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'm just amazed that someone put in a PVC 1-1/4" well to 100 feet. They had to use a rotary. You certainly can't push PVC 100 feet into the ground.

Get a garden hose and see if you can fill the pipe up. It a well will take water it will give water. It's my belief that your WA pump just died which is standard for Water Ace's, just like their cousin the Flotec.

Try the garden hose trick first, then if you want to be sure, go rent a gasoline centrifugal, hook it up (with absloutely no air leaks) with as few fittings as possible and test pump it.

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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  11:27:37 AM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I tried the garden hose yesterday and the water never came close to the top of the pipe after several minutes, so I am guessing that this tells me the well is good, right? Since I heard the splash at 12 or so feet, wouldn't that indicate the water level? Should I try buying a new pump and hooking it back up? What type of pump should I get? I had been using a convertible jet. The 1hp cheap shallow well pump that I bought would not pull the prime. I am confident there are no leaks, but you never know, but I replaced all of the PVC from the well head to the pump last year. Maybe I will try to the gasoline pump idea. Thanks again for your advice.
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speedbump
Admin



Riverview
Florida
11418 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  11:49:34 AM  Show Profile  Visit speedbump's Homepage Send speedbump a Private Message  Reply with Quote
If your going to buy a pump, I recommend you buy a Jet Pump from me.

I agree, since the well wouldn't fill up, it's probably good. But just in case, the rental pump would be my first choice.

Remember, no air leaks, everything has to be tight, you need to use pipe dope or teflon tape or both. And as few fittings as possible.

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JustWellWater84
Senior Member

Florida
364 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  12:57:53 PM  Show Profile Send JustWellWater84 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
just because you replaced it all last year doesnt mean it is all still good. i recommend take a 1.25" slip cap, drill a 1" hole in it with a paddle bit, it will be just the right size to slip a 3/4" pvc pipe through the hole and you can glue a 90 or coupling to the top to hold drop pipe in place. so 30' 3/4" pipe, through a cap with a fitting glued at the top.. then just push the cap back on top of the well, so its easily removable if you ever need to work on it. drop pipe come out of the well into a 1" check valve, and then into the pump..... it's not exactly the way i like to see stuff, but you dont exactly have a well we like to see either.... this will work!! always better to pull from a drop pipe if at all possible rather than off the whole well casing. so if you glue the connections good the only place that could even pull air would be the male adapter at the front of the pump or the 2 male adapters in the check valve. i have hooked up a couple of 1.25" galvanized wells just like this, and they had no trouble. so yes, buy a jet pump from speedbump and hook it up, it should work fine if you hook it all up right.
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Driller1
Senior Member



Michigan
982 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  1:09:19 PM  Show Profile Send Driller1 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Does that well have a screen?? It could be plastic or metal.
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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  3:34:54 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Her is what I just did...I hooked up the old Myers Water Ace directly at the well head (I think the pressure switch was bad, so I replaced it) and primed the pump and, low and behold I have water. I am getting about 9-10 gpm at 30 psi (is this good?). So now I have to move the pump back where it belong about 10 feet away inside the garage.

I think the problem was, a few years ago, the gas company bored the gas line to the house and they hit the well. They came out and repaired it, but the coupling they used was not all the way seated. I cut that off and replaced it. I ran the pump for about 15 minutes, the water is clear and continuous at 30 psi with no noticeable air coming out. It took several tries to prime, but I was patient and it worked. I will try to move everything to the garage tomorrow. Speedbump, I know this water ace is junk and I will definitely replace it with one of your pumps when I do. A token of my appreciation for your help.
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JustWellWater84
Senior Member

Florida
364 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  3:54:46 PM  Show Profile Send JustWellWater84 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Driller1

Does that well have a screen?? It could be plastic or metal.



100-120' sounds like its probably a rock well i would think, right bump? i can see how they set the casing, only by rotary, but i'd love to see how they drilled it out. i sometimes use 1' rods for certain things, but they are sch.80 steel with hd couplings, i have never checked, but i dont know if they will go inside 1.25", and if so, there sure wouldnt be enough room for good return.. what the heck did they use to drill out 1.25" pvc to 100-120'?? i'm thinking something is off. i know when i am on a shovel, 2' sure looks like 4' to me. maybe there was something down a little deeper, and the 1.25" .. was the drop pipe. makes the most sense to me, and i think this is what i will convince myself happened.
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Driller1
Senior Member



Michigan
982 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  5:44:41 PM  Show Profile Send Driller1 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JustWellWater84

quote:
Originally posted by Driller1

Does that well have a screen?? It could be plastic or metal.



100-120' sounds like its probably a rock well i would think, right bump? i can see how they set the casing, only by rotary, but i'd love to see how they drilled it out. i sometimes use 1' rods for certain things, but they are sch.80 steel with hd couplings, i have never checked, but i dont know if they will go inside 1.25", and if so, there sure wouldnt be enough room for good return.. what the heck did they use to drill out 1.25" pvc to 100-120'?? i'm thinking something is off. i know when i am on a shovel, 2' sure looks like 4' to me. maybe there was something down a little deeper, and the 1.25" .. was the drop pipe. makes the most sense to me, and i think this is what i will convince myself happened.

We set screens as deep as 200 foot. Just different areas.
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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  6:28:20 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JustWellWater84

quote:
Originally posted by Driller1

Does that well have a screen?? It could be plastic or metal.



100-120' sounds like its probably a rock well i would think, right bump? i can see how they set the casing, only by rotary, but i'd love to see how they drilled it out. i sometimes use 1' rods for certain things, but they are sch.80 steel with hd couplings, i have never checked, but i dont know if they will go inside 1.25", and if so, there sure wouldnt be enough room for good return.. what the heck did they use to drill out 1.25" pvc to 100-120'?? i'm thinking something is off. i know when i am on a shovel, 2' sure looks like 4' to me. maybe there was something down a little deeper, and the 1.25" .. was the drop pipe. makes the most sense to me, and i think this is what i will convince myself happened.



By rock well do you mean that rock was drilled through to set the well? I am only 10 or so miles from the ocean and I have very sandy soil, no rock here I don't think. I also noticed that the 1.25" pipe is very thin wall pipe. Much thinner than the sch. 40 I am buying from Home Depot. I have water flowing now and tomorrow and I will move the pump to its final location. I know the pump works and the well is producing good water, so I think I am good, but time will tell I guess. Thanks again.
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JustWellWater84
Senior Member

Florida
364 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  8:51:27 PM  Show Profile Send JustWellWater84 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
i just remember speedbump saying that it was mainly rock wells in his area, and its mainly rock wells in my area in northeast fl, so i figured could mainly be rock wells there. ..and the beach does not matter. i live 35 min from fernandina beach and have drilled wells for many beachfront homes. although the soil is sandy, underneath there is rock around 100'. around here water is in the rock, you drill down til you hit it... set casing on it... and go back in the casing and drill through the rock until you hit clay. thats a rock well in my area.

1.25" thinwall pipe... that is wild.

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Driller1
Senior Member



Michigan
982 Posts

Posted - Apr 29 2010 :  9:21:45 PM  Show Profile Send Driller1 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JustWellWater84

i just remember speedbump saying that it was mainly rock wells in his area, and its mainly rock wells in my area in northeast fl, so i figured could mainly be rock wells there. ..and the beach does not matter. i live 35 min from fernandina beach and have drilled wells for many beachfront homes. although the soil is sandy, underneath there is rock around 100'. around here water is in the rock, you drill down til you hit it... set casing on it... and go back in the casing and drill through the rock until you hit clay. thats a rock well in my area.

1.25" thinwall pipe... that is wild.



Yes, the water does not matter here either. We hit rock at 5 foot by the bay.
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speedbump
Admin



Riverview
Florida
11418 Posts

Posted - Apr 30 2010 :  09:04:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit speedbump's Homepage Send speedbump a Private Message  Reply with Quote
We have rock here anywhere from just below the surface to over 100'. But all the "Real" wells are rock wells. In some other areas of the State, I do know they screen wells. It's just different geology I guess.

I agree on the bigger casing below the 1-1/4". It just makes better sense. I can't imagine anyone with an expensive rotary (there aren't any cheap rotary's) putting in a 1-1/4" thin wall PVC well.

The good news is, it works and so does the POS Water Ace pump. My guess would be rock well, but who knows for sure?

Oh, you asked if 10gpm at 30 psi is good, yes it is. That's about I would expect from that pump. And now you know the importance of good fittings, glue, dope etc. Suction leaks can't be found, but they sure can be a pain in the neck.

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vbfdsooty
New Member

VA
8 Posts

Posted - Apr 30 2010 :  1:04:20 PM  Show Profile Send vbfdsooty a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks again for everyone's help. I have moved the pump to it's final location and it seems to be working fine. I am not confident in it's longevity, but when it craps out again, Speedbump will get my business. The final flow rate is about 8-10 gpm at 45 psi out of the garden hose and I also have three sprinkler heads (unknown gpm) that are flowing at 35 psi with good coverage. I will keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best. I learned a lot from you guys, I wish I found this site sooner.
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